- Mar 7, 2025
Vietnam's National Costume: Does It Exist? A Look at Vietnamese Traditional Costumes
Vietnamese traditional clothing is more than just attire - it is a witness to history, a reflection of culture, and the nation's soul. This raises an intriguing question: What did the Vietnamese wear throughout history?
Exploring traditional Vietnamese costumes is a journey into heritage, where fashion intertwines with culture, art, and identity. Let’s embark on this journey with CHUS!
What is Vietnam’s National Costume?
At present, Vietnam does not have an officially recognized national costume of Vietnam by law. However, the traditional ao dai is considered the most iconic attire, symbolizing Vietnamese culture. It is commonly worn during significant events, festivals, and national celebrations.
Why Doesn’t Vietnam Have an Official National Costume?
Vietnam is a multi-ethnic country with diverse regions, each boasting its own historical Vietnamese traditional clothing. Choosing a single outfit to represent the entire nation would be challenging, as it must honor this rich cultural diversity.
Over centuries, Vietnamese traditional costumes have evolved, reflecting different historical periods. The decision to designate an official Vietnamese national costume requires careful consideration and broad consensus within the community.
Discover the Most Famous Vietnamese Traditional Costumes
1. Ao dai
As mentioned earlier, the traditional ao dai is the most recognizable Vietnamese traditional clothing. Over time, it has evolved from ancient Vietnamese clothing into the modernized ao dai we see today. However, its signature design remains: two long panels at the front and back, split from the waist down, for both men and women.
Madam Trần Lệ Xuân wearing a traditional ao dai (Photo: Internet)
2. Ao tu than
The ao tu than (four-piece dress) is one of the most iconic historical Vietnamese traditional clothing pieces, associated with Northern Vietnamese women in the past. The design features two front and two back flaps, symbolizing the "four parents" (one’s own parents and in-laws). It is typically worn with a yếm (Vietnamese halter top), a long silk skirt, and a sash, creating a graceful and elegant appearance.
3. Ao ngu than
Originating in the 18th century under Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát, the ao ngu than (five-part dress) is one of the most philosophical traditional Vietnamese costumes. Its five panels represent the wearer's parents and in-laws, along with themselves, while its five buttons symbolize the Five Constant Virtues (humanity, propriety, righteousness, wisdom, and faithfulness). With its modest silhouette, flared bottom, and high collar, the ao ngu than reflects dignity and integrity. Though no longer widely worn, it can still be found in Vietnam’s national costume exhibitions or cultural events like Bách Hoa Bộ Hành and Tóc Xanh Vạt Áo.
4. Ao ba ba
Emerging in the late 19th century, the ao ba ba is a simple yet iconic traditional clothing of Vietnam, particularly in the Southern region. With long sleeves, a round or heart-shaped neckline, and front buttons, this attire offers comfort and practicality, making it ideal for daily life in the Mekong Delta. However, debates continue regarding its exact origins and historical significance.
5. Ao Giao Linh
The ao giao linh has a long history, dating back to the Lý and Trần dynasties and lasting through the Nguyễn era. It features a cross-collared design with the left panel overlapping the right, tied at the side, showcasing the sophisticated tailoring of ancient Vietnamese costumes. Initially a common outfit for both men and women, it later became court attire and ceremonial wear in the 19th century. Today, the ao giao linh is being revived in cultural events like Bách Hoa Bộ Hành, preserving Vietnam’s sartorial heritage.
A preserved ao giao linh belonging to Emperor Bảo Đại, exhibited at "Flying Dragon - Vietnamese Royal Art" in the Guimet Museum, France (Photo: Internet)
6. Ao Vien Linh
Characterized by its round collar and tied fastening, the ao vien linh shares similarities with the ao giao linh. At certain points in history, it was worn as ceremonial attire by the imperial court, symbolizing power and social status.
Minh họa áo viên lĩnh và giao lĩnh (Ảnh: Internet)
7. Ao Nhat Binh
Closely associated with Queen Nam Phương, the ao nhat binh is a regal Vietnamese national costume, worn by Nguyễn dynasty empresses and princesses as both casual and ceremonial attire. Its rectangular neckline and symmetrical front panels, secured with ties, make it distinctive.
Intricate embroidery featuring phoenixes, lotus patterns, and auspicious characters such as "Phúc" (Happiness) and "Thọ" (Longevity) embellish the fabric. The colors and patterns followed strict hierarchical rules, reflecting the wearer’s status. Today, the ao nhat binh is frequently showcased in exhibitions, cultural events, and photography projects.
A preserved ao nhat binh of Queen Nam Phương, displayed alongside Emperor Bảo Đại (Photo: Internet)
Hà Vi wearing a Nhật Bình robe at the Bách Hoa Bộ Hành event (Photo: Facebook Bách Hoa Bộ Hành)
Traditional Costumes of Vietnam’s Ethnic Groups
Besides the well-known Vietnamese traditional clothing associated with different historical periods and regions, the traditional attire of Vietnam’s ethnic groups showcases a unique charm, reflecting the country’s rich cultural heritage.
Every garment, pattern, and fabric carries historical significance, embodying the identity and artistic excellence of each community.
1. Ao cham (indigo outfit) of the Tày, Nùng, and Thái Ethnic Groups
The indigo outfit is a hallmark of the Northwestern highlands, distinguished by its deep, naturally dyed indigo hue. Unlike other Vietnamese traditional costumes, it features no elaborate embroidery or decorative motifs, yet its simplicity exudes an understated elegance. This minimalistic design mirrors the indigenous people's deep-rooted connection with nature.
2. The com shirt, black skirt, and Pieu scarf of the Thái People
The image of a Thái woman in her traditional Vietnamese clothing—the áo cóm (tight-fitting blouse), a flowing black skirt, and the intricate pieu scarf - evokes a sense of grace and refinement. The com shirt, adorned with delicately crafted butterfly buttons, holds cultural significance, while the black skirt adds an air of elegance.
The pieu scarf, embroidered with meticulous craftsmanship, showcases the artistry of Thái women, enriching the landscape of historical Vietnamese traditional clothing. These scarves are also popular Vietnamese gifts and souvenirs for visitors.
Read more: What's the Pieu scarf?
3. The Floral Skirt of the H’Mong women
Among Vietnam's national costumes, the floral skirt of H’Mong women stands out as a dazzling testament to their craftsmanship and patience. Made from raw hemp fibers, these voluminous skirts are adorned with intricate geometric patterns created using a labor-intensive combination of embroidery, appliqué, and batik waxing techniques.
4. The Traditional Attire of the Ê Đê People
The traditional Vietnamese clothing of the Ê Đê people reflects the essence of the Central Highlands, featuring dark indigo as the dominant color, accentuated by delicate nature-inspired motifs. Ê Đê women wear a boat-necked pullover blouse with long sleeves, paired with a simple yet graceful tube skirt. The men wear long loincloths and collarless jackets adorned with intricate brocade patterns, symbolizing their ethnic identity.
Miss Universe Vietnam 2018, H’Hen Niê, in Ê Đê traditional clothing.
5. The Traditional Costume of the Khmer People
The traditional Vietnamese costumes of the Khmer ethnic group are known for their vibrant and sophisticated designs. Khmer women often wear the Sămpết Chôn Kpal, an elegant ensemble embroidered with intricate motifs and shimmering sequins.
Miss Thạch Thu Thảo wearing a traditional Khmer outfit.
6. The Traditional Costume of the Chăm People
As part of the diverse spectrum of Vietnamese national costumes, the Chăm áo dài stands out with its distinctive modest yet alluring design. Unlike the modernized ao dai, this version is sewn without slits, paired with a long skirt and accessories such as the talei kabak belt, talei ka-in sash, a headscarf, and striking black bead jewelry. Intricate details on the waist belt, vibrant red and gold tones, and the softly tailored silhouette create a graceful and captivating look.
The Value of Traditional Vietnamese Costumes in Preserving Cultural Identity
History is ever-changing, but national identity remains unwavering. In the journey of preserving cultural heritage, Vietnamese traditional clothing stands as a timeless symbol, bridging the past and present.
Just as language is recorded in writing and architecture is reflected in monuments, traditional Vietnamese costumes serve as a visual chronicle of history. Studying ancient Vietnamese clothing allows us to vividly picture the unique beliefs and customs of the Vietnamese people. From this heritage, national pride and resilience flourish, for as the late General Secretary Nguyễn Phú Trọng once said, "As long as culture remains, the nation will endure."
Preserving cultural identity through the colors of Vietnam's national costume (Photo: Bách Hoa Bộ Hành Fanpage)
How Can We Contribute to Preserving Vietnamese Traditional Costumes?
Events like Bách Hoa Bộ Hành and Tóc Xanh Vạt Áo are bringing historical Vietnamese traditional clothing back into everyday life, allowing the public to reconnect with this rich heritage.
At the same time, young generations are actively reviving this beauty - wearing Vietnamese national costumes at festivals and cultural events, or even donning ancient Vietnamese costumes at concerts like Anh Trai Vượt Ngàn Chông Gai. These efforts ensure that traditional clothing of Vietnam continues to thrive in both the present and future.
The Bách Hoa Bộ Hành event honoring ancient Vietnamese costumes (Photo: Fanpage Bách Hoa Bộ Hành)
Adding Vibrant Colors to Vietnam’s Cultural Canvas with CHUS
To ensure that this ancient Vietnamese clothing remains more than just a relic of the past, CHUS collaborates with skilled artisans to bring you handcrafted accessories deeply infused with Vietnamese heritage - from hair sticks and jewelry to intricately tho cam (brocade textiles).
Each piece complements and enhances your traditional ao dai or modernized ao dai, allowing you to wear your culture with confidence. More than that, these creations make thoughtful Vietnamese gifts and meaningful souvenirs, offering an elegant way to share and promote Vietnam’s artistic legacy on a global scale.
CHUS is honored to walk this journey of cultural preservation with you!
